Location
Known colloquially as "the Reek," Croagh Patrick is the most well-known sacred mountain in Ireland. It is located 8 km from Westport, the county seat of Mayo. Despite its low elevation of 765 metres (2,510 feet), it provides breathtaking views of Clew Bay as it is only a mile and a half from the sea. Along the ridge of the mountains are two tracks leading up to the summit of the “Reek.” One track comes from the eastern side of the mountain and the other from the west. East of the mountain is a vast plain where the pagan monarchs of Cruachan established their dominion and where, many centuries later, numerous political families rose to power.
History
The pilgrimage to Croagh Patrick has a long history. The last Sunday of July is known as “Reek” Sunday, a day when thousands of people still walk the steep track to the top, much as people have done for the last sixteen centuries. In The Annals of the Four Masters, we hear how lightning struck the mountain in 1113, killing thirty people who were fasting. Under the O'Connor, Lords of Connaught, peace, and order reigned in the area in 1224, and we are told that the sole crime committed in the province was a robbery on the route to the mountain. The thief's hands and feet were cut off. The church did not always look kindly on this pilgrimage, and towards the end of the nineteenth century, it was disapproved of by the church authorities. However, in 1903, the Archbishop of Tuam, Dr. John Healy supported the practice of this pilgrimage and went as far as to have an oratory built on the top of the mountain so that Mass could be celebrated there. This ensured the continuity of the pilgrimage and today, thousands make the pilgrimage each year on the last Sunday of July.
The Birds
Patrick did the journey to the summit in the fifth century and by the second half of the seventh century, we have a documented narrative of Patrick fasting on the mountaintop for forty days and forty nights. We are also told that God sent a flock of holy birds to sing to him in order to console him during his fast.
By the end of the ninth century, this story had progressed to Patrick being attacked by demon birds so numerous that they blocked out the sky. He was able to get rid of them by tossing the bell Brigid (whose feast is February 1st) had given him at them, although a bit of the bell was shattered. They vanished, and he was comforted by an angel who sent beautiful white birds to sing to him. The birds are said to represent all the souls that Patrick will save.
According to local folklore, the evil birds were exiled to a depression beneath the peak known as Log na nDeamhan (Cave of the Demon). Patrick also banished the demon's mother, Caoirthineach (Caorthannach), to Lough na Corra south of the mountain. She fled but was finally defeated by Patrick near Lough Derg.
The Guardians of Ireland
Another intriguing addition to the mythology of Patrick on the "Reek" is the story that Patrick left seven members of his household to guard Ireland.
Thereafter he blessed the men of Ireland from the Rick, and he orders seven of his household (who are still alive) to guard the men of Ireland, to wit, a man at Cruachan Aigle, and a man at Benn Gulbain, a man in Sliab Bethad, and a man in Sliab Cua, and married pair at Cluain Iraird, and Domangort of Sliab Slangai
We know these places today as Croagh Patrick, Benbulben, Slieve Beagh in Tyrone or Meath, Slieve Gua in Waterford, Clonard in Meath, and Slieve Donard in Co. Down. Máire MacNeill in her brilliant work The Festival of Lughnasa tells us that the tradition of a perpetual guardian persisted at Slieve Donard until the nineteenth century. It is hardly unexpected that in the nineteenth century, this tradition of a perpetual guardian (7 of them) looking after Ireland was no longer heard of, given the 1800s were a time of unprecedented change and calamity in the country. The Big Wind of January 6, 1839, the famine years of 1845-1849, the introduction of free basic education, the rising authority of the Roman Catholic church, and agricultural agitation that led to land reform statutes in the 1870s all occurred during this century.
In these stories about Croagh Patrick we see a struggle between good and evil, as well as the need for constant care and guardianship to keep evil away.
A Cloch Dubh/ The Black Bell
The bell which Patrick tossed at the demon birds, has a fascinating story. Cloch Dubh, or the black bell of Saint Patrick, is the name given to it. During pilgrimage season, it was taken to Teampall Phádraig at the summit of the mountain. The keepers of the bell were the Geraghty family, and the bell was transported to the reek every year during the pilgrimage season. Each pilgrim would kiss the carved cross on the bell before passing it three times sunwise around his body. The bell was returned to the Geraghty stewardship after the time for pilgrimage was over. Sir William Wilde purchased the bell from the final steward (Maor) before he emigrated to America. As the Cloch Dubh has both religious and historical significance, we can only wonder why the last steward sold the bell to Sir William Wilde. Fortunately, Wilde presented it to the Royal Irish Academy, and it may now be viewed in the National Museum in Dublin.
The Spiritual Power of the Bell
This account of the bell poses an intriguing topic since its significance was tied to the Croagh Patrick pilgrimage. If we see the bell as a gift from Brigid to Patrick and subsequently to the pilgrims through the centuries, does relocating the bell to the museum diminish its power?
According to many Indigenous societies, a gift contains the life force or spiritual essence (“hau”) of the giver so is a deeply spiritual gesture. It binds the giver and receiver and strengthens the relationship between them. Is the pilgrimage now diminished since pilgrims can no longer kiss the cross on the bell or carry it sunwise around their body or does the mountain itself now assume the spiritual bond with Brigid and Patrick?
Benefits of Pilgrimage
Leaving aside the history and stories of Croagh Patrick we can also see how there are many potential health benefits to completing the “Reek” pilgrimage. These are:
Physical exercise: The long climb up the mountain improves cardiovascular health and increases stamina.
Stress reduction: A pilgrimage allows a person people to get away from their regular lives. It transfers the pilgrim to a different environment. This change in location and rhythm has been shown to relieve tension and promote relaxation.
Mental Health: The spiritual component of a pilgrimage might be beneficial to one's mental health. Engaging in prayer, meditation, or contemplation during the journey can lead to a sense of inner peace and a stronger connection with oneself.
Social Interaction: Many pilgrimage routes attract quite distinct groups of people. They can be from many diverse backgrounds and cultures. The shared experience of the pilgrimage fosters social interaction and a sense of community. These social interactions with various people can enhance feelings of belonging and support.
Cultural Enrichment: Pilgrims benefit from cultural enrichment and intellectual stimulation when they learn about the pilgrim route's history.
Sense of Purpose: Pilgrimages provide individuals with a clear and meaningful aim, promoting a feeling of purpose and direction in life. This sense of purpose can improve general well-being.
Connection with Nature: Many pilgrimages track through natural environments, allowing pilgrims to interact with nature. Croagh Patrick is no exception and the area around it as well as the mountain itself is exceptionally beautiful. Admiring the natural world's beauty as well as spending time outside improves one's mental and emotional well-being.
Self-Reflection: The physical and mental rigours of pilgrimage frequently stimulate self-reflection and introspection. Climbing the “Reek” allows a person to reflect on their beliefs, values, and life aspirations.
Spiritual Growth: Pilgrimages can be transforming experiences for people who have religious or spiritual beliefs. It enables a person to connect with the primal energy of the cosmos, increasing their beliefs and encouraging spiritual growth.
Gratitude and Humility: These interactions with the natural world, other people, and ourselves can cultivate humility, thanks for the journey, and a greater awareness of life's advantages.
The rich stories and history of Croagh Patrick raises the same questions that need to be answered in every generation. Some of these are:
- How do we ensure that good will prevail over evil?
- Do we need spiritual guardians to look after us?
- Do we need to go on pilgrimage to foster our health and well-being?
- When and how does a material object lose its significance?
- Do functionality and utilitarianism diminish our lives?
To explore the answers to these questions and build your own four pillars of health join me on my course, Health, and Healing in the Irish Calendar Year.
Read more about Sacred Ireland and its healing traditions here.